It has been a brilliant day here. It is the sort of brilliance that gives added definition to the view, even to the cliffs 21 miles across the water; it is the sort of day that carries with it a definite nip in the air that presages the season to come.
Throwing snow at a windscreen because the wipers are icily stuck and the washer system with pure alcohol de-icer in the water has frozen solid, is an amazing experience. -19c lasted about a week with every day crystal clear (much as today) and treacherously beautiful. It was in this week we stayed at an hotel without heating of any kind in the guest rooms. We were given two hot water bottles between three individuals, (we gave them to the youngest amonst us) and we all dressed to go to bed. Our bodies had to heat the mattresses, the mattresses were literally, painfully cold. Dressing the next day was a rushed affair. Between carrying the plates from the kitchen to our table, our desperately needed hot breakfasts and drinks became cold too.